Fencing is estimated per metre, but the real cost hides in the posts, the concrete, the ground conditions and the gates. This guide shows how to count posts and panels, compares materials, and explains the dividing-fence rule that means your neighbour may owe half.
Fencing is estimated per metre, so the first step is measuring the total run of fence you need. Walk the boundary and add up every side, including any returns. That total length drives everything: the number of posts, the number of panels or palings, and most of the cost.
A fence is a series of panels between posts. Posts are typically spaced at regular intervals — commonly around 2.4 metres apart — so the number of posts is the length divided by the spacing, plus one for the final post.
Posts = (Length ÷ spacing) + 1 Panels = Posts − 1
A 20 metre fence with posts every 2.4 metres needs about 20 ÷ 2.4 + 1 ≈ 10 posts and 9 panels between them. Each post is set in concrete, so you will also need to estimate post-hole concrete — our concrete calculator has a post-hole mode for exactly this.
Fencing material is the biggest cost variable. From most economical upward, common Australian options include timber paling, treated pine, Colorbond steel, and aluminium or premium timber at the higher end. Colorbond is popular for its low maintenance and long life; timber is cheaper upfront but needs staining or painting and eventually replacing. As with most building materials, the cheapest to buy is rarely the cheapest over twenty years.
A flat, straight run is the simple case. Sloping ground means either stepping the fence down in sections or raking the panels to follow the slope, both of which add labour and sometimes material. Gates are a separate cost — a gate needs its own sturdier posts, hinges, and a latch, and a double or driveway gate costs considerably more than a single pedestrian gate. Count gates separately in your estimate.
Front fences in particular are often subject to council height limits, and fences on corner blocks may have sight-line restrictions for traffic safety. Pool fencing is separately and strictly regulated for safety. Before committing to a height or style, a quick check with your council avoids an expensive rebuild.
Fix your total length, count your posts and panels, add gates and concrete, then get local quotes on the full job including groundwork. Because labour and material prices vary and ground conditions differ, quotes against your exact measurements will always beat a generic per-metre figure — and remember to raise cost-sharing with your neighbour early if it is a boundary fence.
How do I calculate fencing materials?
Measure the total fence length, then divide by the post spacing (commonly 2.4 metres) and add one for the number of posts. The number of panels is one less than the posts. Each post is set in concrete, so estimate post-hole concrete too.
What is the cheapest fencing material?
Timber paling is usually the most economical, followed by treated pine, Colorbond steel, then aluminium or premium timber. Colorbond is popular for low maintenance and long life; timber is cheaper upfront but needs upkeep and eventual replacement.
Who pays for a boundary fence in Australia?
A dividing fence on a shared boundary is usually a shared cost. In most states your neighbour is generally liable for half the cost of a reasonable fence, subject to notice requirements and rules about what is reasonable. Check your state's fencing legislation and talk to your neighbour first.
Does sloping ground cost more to fence?
Yes. A flat, straight run is simplest. Sloping ground means stepping the fence down or raking the panels to follow the slope, both adding labour and sometimes material. Rocky ground also makes the post holes harder and more expensive to dig.
Do fences need council approval?
Front fences are often subject to council height limits, corner blocks may have sight-line restrictions, and pool fencing is strictly regulated for safety. Check with your council before committing to a height or style to avoid an expensive rebuild.