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Electricity Cost Calculator

Free Australian running cost calculator · No sign-up · Runs entirely in your browser

Estimate what each appliance costs to run in Australian dollars, per day, week, month and year. Enter your own rate from your bill for an accurate result.

Appliances & Usage
ApplianceWattsHrs/dayDays/week

Electricity rate
$/kWh (Aus avg ~$0.28–0.35)
Summary
Weekly Cost
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Australian Electricity Costs

Australian electricity prices are among the highest in the world. Average rates in 2025: NSW ~$0.28–0.32/kWh, VIC ~$0.24–0.30/kWh, QLD ~$0.24–0.28/kWh, SA ~$0.35–0.45/kWh, WA ~$0.29/kWh.

⏱️ Last reviewed: 26 July 2026 · Written and reviewed by Mohsin Iqbal under our editorial policy and calculation methodology. Reflects the AER's Default Market Offer for 2026–27, in effect from 1 July 2026.
This calculates usage cost only. Your actual bill also includes a daily supply charge of roughly $0.90–$1.30 per day, which applies whether you use any electricity or not — around $330 to $475 a year. Add it to any figure below for a realistic bill estimate.
📖 Approx. 15 min read🇦🇺 DMO 2026–27🔄 Updated 26 July 2026

On this page

  1. What You Are Actually Paying For
  2. Understanding the Kilowatt-Hour
  3. How to Use This Calculator
  4. What Changed on 1 July 2026
  5. How the States Differ
  6. Flat Rate vs Time of Use
  7. Typical Appliance Wattages
  8. What Appliances Actually Cost to Run
  9. Worked Example: Air Conditioning a Summer
  10. Charging an Electric Vehicle
  11. Solar and Self-Consumption
  12. Practical Efficiency Measures
  13. Common Mistakes
  14. Frequently Asked Questions
  15. Know the Two Numbers on Your Bill

🔑 Key Takeaways

What You Are Actually Paying For

Almost every electricity calculator online gives you the usage figure and stops. An Australian bill has two components, and missing the second is why estimates so often come in low.

ComponentWhat it isTypical
Daily supply chargeA fixed fee for being connected to the network. Charged every day whether you use power or not$0.90–$1.30/day
Usage chargeWhat you consume, in cents per kilowatt-hour28–40 c/kWh
A typical quarterly bill, built up properly. A three-person household using 1,500 kWh over 91 days at 32c/kWh pays $480 in usage — plus $100.10 in supply charges. That is $580.10 total, of which 17% is the fixed charge. For a low-usage household — a single person, or a holiday home — the supply charge can approach half the bill. It is also why "using less" has a floor: you cannot get below roughly $330 a year while staying connected.

The calculator above handles the usage half, which is the part you can actually change. Add your own supply charge from your bill to get the full picture.

Understanding the Kilowatt-Hour

A kilowatt-hour is one kilowatt of power drawn for one hour. It is a unit of energy, not power — power is the rate, energy is the accumulated total.

kWh = (Watts ÷ 1,000) × Hours

Cost = kWh × Rate per kWh

Example: a 2,000 W air conditioner for 8 hours
  (2,000 ÷ 1,000) × 8 = 16 kWh
  16 × $0.32 = $5.12 for the day
1 kWh will runFor about
A 10 W LED bulb100 hours
A 150 W fridge6.7 hours
A 2,000 W air conditioner30 minutes
A 2,400 W heater25 minutes
An electric vehicleAbout 5.5 km

The pattern worth internalising: anything that makes heat or cold dominates a bill. Electronics and lighting barely register by comparison.

How to Use This Calculator

  1. Set your electricity rate from your bill — the usage charge in cents per kWh, entered as dollars. 32c is $0.32.
  2. Enter each appliance's wattage. It is on the compliance plate, the label, or the manual.
  3. Enter hours per day and days per week that it actually runs — not how long it is switched on at the wall.
  4. Add or remove rows to build up your household.
  5. Add your daily supply charge to the annual figure yourself: multiply it by 365.
Wattage is a maximum, not an average. A fridge is rated at 150 W but its compressor cycles on and off, so it might average 40–60 W over a day. An air conditioner is rated for full output but modulates once the room reaches temperature. For anything thermostatically controlled, the honest approach is to estimate effective running hours rather than the hours it is switched on.

What Changed on 1 July 2026

Two developments this year matter for anyone estimating a bill, and most calculators have not caught up with either.

The Australian Energy Regulator released its Default Market Offer for 2026–27 in May, taking effect 1 July. Residential benchmark prices fell in most regions — down 3.4% to 7.7% in New South Wales, 10.7% in South East Queensland, and roughly flat in South Australia. The determination also introduced tariff caps for the first time, limiting not just annual bills but the maximum daily supply charge and usage rate a retailer may charge on a standing offer.

The Solar Sharer Offer is the genuinely new thing. Now part of the regulated DMO, it gives customers three hours of free electricity every day — 11am to 2pm in NSW and South East Queensland, 12pm to 3pm in South Australia — in exchange for slightly higher rates (roughly 1 to 4 cents) at other times. It exists because midday solar generation is abundant and the grid would rather you used it then. If you can move a dishwasher, washing machine, pool pump or EV charging into that window, it is close to free energy. If you cannot shift anything, you are marginally worse off.
Victorians: your pricing structure changed. The 2026–27 Victorian Default Offer mandates time-of-use tariffs, with an expensive late-afternoon and evening peak — typically around 4pm to 9pm. Retailers have repriced accordingly, with peak rates rising substantially and off-peak falling. A flat-rate calculation is now a poor guide to a Victorian bill: when you use electricity matters as much as how much.

How the States Differ

Australia does not have one electricity market, and that is why rates vary so much. Five states and the ACT trade through the National Electricity Market; Western Australia and the Northern Territory operate separately, and Tasmania has its own arrangements despite being connected.

RegionPrice regulationIndicative rate
New South WalesAER Default Market Offer~30–35 c/kWh
South East QueenslandAER Default Market Offer~30–34 c/kWh
South AustraliaAER Default Market Offer~34–40 c/kWh — consistently the highest in the NEM
VictoriaVictorian Default Offer (Essential Services Commission)~28 c/kWh — among the lowest, now on mandated time-of-use
ACTRegulated by the ICRCCheck your retailer — separate arrangements from the DMO
Regional QueenslandQueensland Competition AuthorityUniform tariff policy; differs from South East Queensland
TasmaniaTasmanian Economic RegulatorCheck your bill — strong hydro generation, own price path
Western AustraliaState government sets tariffs (Synergy)Outside the NEM entirely
Northern TerritoryGovernment-regulated (Jacana Energy)Outside the NEM entirely
Why the difference is so large. South Australia leans heavily on gas generation to firm a very high share of wind and solar, and carries higher network costs across a dispersed grid. Victoria and Tasmania benefit from cheaper generation. Western Australia and the Northern Territory are not connected to the eastern grid at all, so their prices are set by state policy rather than a wholesale market. A household in South Australia can pay 40% more per kilowatt-hour than one in Victoria for identical usage.

Rates above are indicative for competitive market offers and move with each annual determination. The only figure that matters for your own calculation is the one printed on your bill.

Flat Rate vs Time of Use

Flat rateTime of use
How it worksOne price, any hourDifferent prices by time of day
RequiresAny meterA smart meter
PeakTypically late afternoon to evening, and the most expensive
Off-peakOvernight, and the cheapest
SuitsHouseholds that cannot shift usageAnyone who can run big loads overnight or midday

If you are on time of use, this calculator's single rate will not reflect your bill accurately. Run it separately for the loads you can shift and the loads you cannot, using the relevant rate for each — that comparison is usually the fastest way to see whether shifting is worth the effort.

Typical Appliance Wattages

💡 This page is print-formatted — use your browser's print function to take this table with you when you go around the house noting wattages. Navigation, ads and links are stripped automatically.

If the label has worn off or the appliance is buried in a cupboard, start here. These are typical ratings for Australian 230 V appliances — use them as a starting point, then check your own plate if the appliance is a large one.

ApplianceTypical wattsNotes
Heating, cooling and hot water
Electric hot water (storage)3,600 WUsually on a controlled-load tariff overnight
Electric oven2,000–2,500 WElement cycles, so average is lower
Portable electric heater1,200–2,400 WThe most expensive way to heat a room
Split-system air conditioner1,000–3,500 WInverter models modulate well below rating
Ducted air conditioning4,000–8,000 WZoning makes a large difference
Ceiling fan50–75 WRoughly 2% of an air conditioner
Kitchen
Kettle2,000–2,200 WCapped near 2,200 W to stay inside a 10 A outlet
Toaster800–1,200 WHigh wattage, very short run time
Microwave1,000–1,500 WInput power, not the cooking figure on the front
Dishwasher1,200–1,800 WMost of it is heating water
Refrigerator (400 L)100–200 WCompressor cycles; averages far less
Chest freezer100–200 WRuns continuously, so annual cost adds up
Laundry
Washing machine (cold)150–500 WLow unless you select a hot wash
Washing machine (hot)1,800–2,400 WHeating the water is nearly all of it
Clothes dryer (vented)2,000–2,700 WHeat pump dryers use roughly half
Electronics and lighting
Laptop45–90 WCharger rating; actual draw is usually lower
Desktop PC150–300 WIdle draw is much lower than the peak
Gaming PC400–750 WOnly under load
TV, 55-inch LED100–150 WOLED and larger panels draw more
Modem and router10–15 WSmall, but runs 24/7
LED bulb6–12 WReplaces a 50 W halogen
Halogen downlight35–50 WWorth replacing on running cost alone
Outdoor and other
Pool pump750–1,500 WOften run far longer than necessary
EV charger (home)2,400–7,400 W7 kW is a typical single-phase wallbox
Nameplate wattage is a maximum, not an average. Anything with a thermostat — fridges, freezers, air conditioners, ovens, hot water — cycles on and off. A 150 W fridge might average 40–60 W across a day. For those appliances, estimate effective running hours rather than the hours it is plugged in, or your figure will come out two or three times too high.

What Appliances Actually Cost to Run

Indicative figures at 32c/kWh. Your own wattages and hours will differ, but the ranking holds almost everywhere.

ApplianceRatingAssumed usekWh/weekPer weekPer year
LED bulb (10 W)10 W6 h × 7 d0.4$0.13$7
Modem/router12 W24 h × 7 d2.0$0.65$34
TV, 55-inch LED120 W4 h × 7 d3.4$1.08$56
Refrigerator (400 L)150 W24 h × 7 d25.2$8.06$419
Washing machine500 W1 h × 3 d1.5$0.48$25
Dishwasher1,200 W1 h × 5 d6.0$1.92$100
Clothes dryer (vented)2,400 W1 h × 3 d7.2$2.30$120
Split-system A/C (cooling)2,000 W8 h × 7 d112.0$35.84$1,864
Electric heater (portable)2,400 W6 h × 7 d100.8$32.26$1,677
Hot water (electric storage)3,600 W3 h × 7 d75.6$24.19$1,258
Pool pump1,100 W8 h × 7 d61.6$19.71$1,025
EV charging (home, 7 kW)7,000 W3 h × 4 d84.0$26.88$1,398
Look at the gap between the top and bottom of that list. Running an air conditioner eight hours a day costs more per year than a fridge, TV, modem, dishwasher, washing machine and every LED in the house combined — by a wide margin. Heating, cooling, hot water and pool pumps are where bills are made. Turning off the TV at the wall is not where the money is.

Worked Example: Air Conditioning a Summer

A 2,000 W split system running eight hours a day through summer.

RatePer weekPer quarterPer year
28 c/kWh (Victoria)$31.36$407.68$1,630.72
32 c/kWh (mid-range)$35.84$465.92$1,863.68
38 c/kWh (South Australia)$42.56$553.28$2,213.12

112 kWh a week either way — the only difference is the rate. That spread of nearly $600 a year for identical usage is why comparing retailers matters, and why the same appliance advice does not apply equally across states.

Charging an Electric Vehicle

An EV using 18 kWh per 100 km over 15,000 km a year consumes 2,700 kWh — roughly a third of a typical household's annual usage.

Where you chargeRateAnnual cost
Off-peak overnight or excess solar~10 c/kWh$270
Flat-rate home charging32 c/kWh$864
Public DC fast charging~55 c/kWh$1,485
Where you charge matters more than what you drive. The same car, the same distance, and a $1,200 annual difference depending purely on tariff and timing. This is also the strongest argument for the Solar Sharer Offer — three free hours a day, every day, is enough to cover a typical commute for many drivers.

For comparison, a petrol car at 8 L/100km over the same distance costs well over $2,000 a year at current pump prices — see the fuel cost calculator.

Solar and Self-Consumption

Rooftop solar changes the arithmetic in a way many people get backwards. The value is not in what you export — feed-in tariffs have fallen substantially — it is in the electricity you do not buy.

What happens to a solar kWhWhat it is worth
Used in your home immediatelyThe full retail rate you avoid paying — 28–40c
Exported to the gridThe feed-in tariff, typically a few cents

A kilowatt-hour you consume yourself is worth several times one you export. That is why the practical advice for solar households is to run big loads in the middle of the day — dishwasher, washing machine, pool pump, EV charging — rather than overnight. It is the same logic behind the Solar Sharer Offer, applied to your own roof.

Practical Efficiency Measures

Ordered by how much they typically move a bill, rather than by how often they get repeated.

MeasureWhy it works
Moderate your thermostatAround 24–26°C in summer and 18–20°C in winter. Every degree closer to the outside temperature cuts run time on the largest load in the house
Choose an inverter air conditionerFixed-speed units cycle on and off at full power; inverters modulate to hold temperature, using substantially less once the room is cool
Wash in cold waterHeating the water is nearly all of a hot wash's energy — a machine drops from around 2,000 W to a few hundred
Run full loadsA dishwasher or washing machine uses close to the same energy half-full as full, so half-loads roughly double the cost per item
Replace halogen downlights with LEDA 50 W halogen becomes a 7 W LED for the same light — and halogens also add heat your air conditioner then removes
Trim pool pump hoursMany run several hours longer than the pool needs. It is a large, continuous load and among the easiest to reduce
Line-dry where you canA vented dryer is one of the highest-wattage appliances in the house. A heat pump dryer uses roughly half if you need one
Check the hot water tariffElectric storage hot water on a controlled-load tariff is billed at a much lower rate. Worth confirming yours is on one
Smart plugs for standbyGenuine but small — a few dollars a month. Worth doing once the larger items are handled
The order matters more than the list. Every one of these is worth doing, but the first four are worth ten times the last. If a bill is uncomfortable, the answer is almost always heating, cooling, hot water or a pool pump — not the television's standby light. Use the calculator above to rank your own appliances before deciding where to spend effort.

Common Mistakes

  1. Forgetting the daily supply charge. It is $330–$475 a year before you use anything, and on a low-usage household it can be close to half the bill.
  2. Using rated wattage as average draw. Fridges, air conditioners and anything thermostatic cycle. Rated power is the maximum, not the average.
  3. Applying a flat rate on a time-of-use tariff. Since 2026–27 this is particularly misleading in Victoria, where peak and off-peak now differ substantially.
  4. Confusing kW with kWh. Kilowatts are the rate; kilowatt-hours are the accumulated energy you are billed for.
  5. Assuming the DMO is what you pay. It is a cap on standing offers. Competitive plans commonly sit 18–27% below it.
  6. Chasing standby power while ignoring the heat pump. Standby is worth a few dollars a month. Heating, cooling and hot water are worth hundreds a year.
  7. Comparing bills across different quarters. A summer bill and a winter bill are not comparable. Compare like quarters year on year.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I calculate electricity cost?

Divide the appliance's wattage by 1,000 to get kilowatts, multiply by hours of use to get kilowatt-hours, then multiply by your rate. A 2,000 W air conditioner running 8 hours uses 16 kWh, which at 32c/kWh costs $5.12. Add your daily supply charge separately for a full bill estimate.

What is a kilowatt-hour?

A kilowatt-hour is the energy used by a 1,000 W appliance running for one hour. It is the unit electricity retailers bill in. One kWh will run a 10 W LED for about 100 hours, a fridge for around seven hours, or a 2,000 W air conditioner for half an hour.

How much does electricity cost in Australia?

Usage rates typically run from around 28c/kWh in Victoria to 40c/kWh in South Australia on competitive market offers, plus a daily supply charge of roughly $0.90 to $1.30. Rates vary by state, retailer and plan, so the figure on your own bill is the only one that matters for your calculations.

What is the Default Market Offer?

The DMO is a price cap set annually by the Australian Energy Regulator for customers on standing offers in New South Wales, South East Queensland and South Australia. It is also the reference price retailers advertise against. It is a ceiling rather than a typical price — competitive market offers commonly sit 18–27% below it.

What is the Solar Sharer Offer?

Introduced as part of the 2026–27 Default Market Offer, it provides three hours of free electricity each day — 11am to 2pm in NSW and South East Queensland, 12pm to 3pm in South Australia — in exchange for slightly higher rates at other times. It rewards shifting loads such as dishwashers, pool pumps and EV charging into the middle of the day when solar generation is abundant.

Why does my bill include a charge even when I use nothing?

That is the daily supply charge, a fixed fee for being connected to the network. It applies every day regardless of consumption and totals roughly $330 to $475 a year. It is why an empty holiday home still receives a bill, and why reducing usage has a practical floor.

What uses the most electricity at home?

Anything that produces heat or cold. Heating and cooling usually top the list, followed by hot water, then pool pumps where fitted. Electronics, lighting and standby power are minor by comparison — a year of running a modem costs about as much as three days of air conditioning.

How much does an air conditioner cost to run?

A 2,000 W split system running eight hours a day uses 112 kWh a week. At 32c/kWh that is about $35.84 a week, or roughly $466 a quarter if run at that rate throughout. Inverter units modulate rather than running at full power continuously, so real consumption is often lower than the rated figure suggests.

How much does it cost to charge an electric vehicle?

An EV using 18 kWh per 100 km over 15,000 km a year needs about 2,700 kWh. That is roughly $270 a year on off-peak or excess solar, $864 on a flat home rate, or around $1,485 relying on public fast charging. Where and when you charge matters far more than which car you drive.

How much do solar panels save?

The saving comes mainly from electricity you avoid buying rather than what you export. A kilowatt-hour used in your own home is worth the full retail rate you did not pay — 28 to 40 cents — while an exported one earns only the feed-in tariff, typically a few cents. Running large loads during daylight is what turns a solar system into savings.

Should I switch to a time-of-use tariff?

It depends entirely on whether you can shift usage. If you can run the dishwasher, washing machine, pool pump or EV charger overnight or in the middle of the day, time of use will usually save money. If your consumption is concentrated in the late-afternoon peak, a flat rate may serve you better. Victorian customers now have time-of-use pricing mandated under the 2026–27 default offer.

How do I reduce my electricity bill?

In rough order of impact: compare retailers and move off a standing offer, moderate heating and cooling settings, shift large loads to off-peak or midday, check whether your hot water is on a controlled-load tariff, and trim pool pump hours. Standby power is worth addressing but will not meaningfully change a large bill.

Know the Two Numbers on Your Bill

Almost everything on this page comes back to two figures: your usage rate in cents per kilowatt-hour, and your daily supply charge. Find them on your bill, put the rate into the calculator above, and add the supply charge yourself. That gives you a realistic estimate rather than an optimistic one.

From there, the Ohm's Law calculator converts between volts, amps and watts if an appliance lists current rather than power, and the voltage drop calculator covers losses in long cable runs.

⚡ Electronics Calculators

Electricity Cost Calculator — appliance running costs (this page) Ohm's Law Calculator — volts, amps, ohms and watts Voltage Drop Calculator — cable losses and sizing Resistor Calculator — decode colour bands

📋 References & Further Reading

Australian Energy Regulator — Default Market Offer 2026–27 final determination Energy Made Easy — Free independent plan comparison (Australian Government) energy.gov.au — Australian Government energy information Clean Energy Council — Solar and renewable energy guidance