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Tyre Size Calculator

Free Australian tyre size comparison · No sign-up · Runs entirely in your browser

Compare two tyre sizes side by side — sidewall height, overall diameter, circumference, revolutions per kilometre and the speedometer error a size change introduces.

Tyre Size 1

Enter tyre size (e.g. 225/45R17 from sidewall of tyre)

Width (mm)
Aspect ratio (%)
Rim diameter (in)

Comparison tyre

Width 2 (mm)
Aspect 2 (%)
Rim 2 (in)
Tyre Dimensions
Tyre 1 Diameter
MetricTyre 1Tyre 2Diff

Reading Australian Tyre Codes

Format: 225/45R17 — 225 = width in mm; 45 = aspect ratio (sidewall height as % of width); R = radial; 17 = rim diameter in inches.

Load & Speed Ratings

Tyres also show a load index (e.g. 91 = 615kg per tyre) and speed rating (e.g. V = up to 240 km/h). Always match or exceed the manufacturer's recommended ratings listed in your owner's manual or door placard.

⏱️ Last reviewed: 26 July 2026 · Written and reviewed by Mohsin Iqbal under our editorial policy and calculation methodology. General guidance only — confirm fitment with your vehicle manufacturer and state road authority.
📖 Approx. 18 min read🇦🇺 ADR 18/03🔄 Updated 26 July 2026

On this page

  1. How to Read a Tyre Size Code
  2. What Each Number Measures
  3. The Formulas
  4. How to Use This Calculator
  5. Worked Example 1: Decoding 225/45R17
  6. Worked Example 2: Factory vs a Larger Aftermarket Tyre
  7. Worked Example 3: An SUV Tyre Upgrade
  8. Worked Example 4: Off-Road 4WD Tyres
  9. Tyre Types for Australian Conditions
  10. Tyre Size Comparison Table
  11. Plus Sizing: Bigger Rim, Same Diameter
  12. Speedometer Error and ADR 18/03
  13. The Odometer Consequence
  14. Fuel Economy, Comfort and Handling
  15. Tyres for Electric Vehicles
  16. Load Rating and Speed Rating
  17. Tyre Pressure After a Size Change
  18. Tyre Replacement Checklist
  19. Australian Rules and Roadworthiness
  20. Common Mistakes
  21. Frequently Asked Questions
  22. Match the Diameter, Then Everything Else Follows

🔑 Key Takeaways

How to Read a Tyre Size Code

Every tyre carries its dimensions on the sidewall in a standard sequence. Taking 225/45R17 91V apart:

ElementMeansIn this example
225Section width in millimetres, tread wall to tread wall225 mm wide
45Aspect ratio — sidewall height as a percentage of width45% of 225 = 101.3 mm
RConstruction: R for radial, the modern standardRadial
17Rim diameter in inches17 in = 431.8 mm
91Load index — a coded maximum load per tyre91 = 615 kg
VSpeed rating — maximum rated speedV = 240 km/h
The aspect ratio trips almost everyone up. It is a ratio, not a measurement. A 45 on a 225-wide tyre gives a 101 mm sidewall; the same 45 on a 285-wide tyre gives 128 mm. That is why two tyres with the same "profile" number can have very different sidewall heights — and why you cannot judge diameter from the middle number alone.

What Each Number Measures

The size code describes three physical dimensions. Seeing where they sit on the wheel makes the arithmetic obvious:

Diagram of tyre dimensions for size 225/45R17 Left: front view of a wheel showing overall diameter 634.3 millimetres, rim diameter 17 inches or 431.8 millimetres, and sidewall height 101.3 millimetres. Right: cross-section showing section width 225 millimetres and sidewall height as 45 percent of that width. Front view Overall diameter 634.3 mm Rim diameter — 17 in (431.8 mm) Sidewall 101.3 mm Cross-section road surface Section width — 225 mm 45% of width rim

The key thing the diagram shows is that there are two sidewalls in every diameter — one above the rim and one below it. That is why the formula doubles the sidewall height before adding the rim. Raise the aspect ratio by ten points on a 225-wide tyre and you add 22.5 mm of sidewall, but 45 mm of overall diameter.

The Formulas

Sidewall height (mm) = Width × (Aspect ratio ÷ 100)
Overall diameter (mm) = (Rim diameter × 25.4) + (2 × Sidewall height)
Circumference (mm) = Overall diameter × π
Revolutions per km = 1,000,000 ÷ Circumference
VariableWhy it matters
WidthContact patch and, indirectly, grip and rolling resistance
Aspect ratioSidewall height — the main influence on ride comfort and steering feel
Rim diameterConverted from inches at 25.4 mm per inch
× 2 on sidewallThere is a sidewall above and below the rim
Revolutions per kmWhat your speedometer and odometer actually count
Revolutions per kilometre is the number that matters most. Your car has no idea how big its tyres are. It counts wheel rotations and multiplies by a circumference figure programmed at the factory. Change the tyre and that stored figure becomes wrong — which is why every downstream reading, from speed to trip distance, shifts together.

How to Use This Calculator

  1. Enter your current tyre as three numbers: width, aspect ratio and rim diameter. From 225/45R17 that is 225, 45 and 17.
  2. Enter the tyre you are considering in the second column.
  3. Compare overall diameter first. This is the figure that drives everything else.
  4. Check the speedometer row. It shows your true speed when the dashboard reads 100 km/h on the new tyre.
  5. Keep the diameter change small. The wider the gap, the more of the manufacturer's speedo buffer you consume.
The calculator compares dimensions, not fitment. Two tyres can have identical rolling diameters and still not both fit — wheel width, offset, guard clearance, suspension travel and brake caliper clearance all decide whether a tyre physically works on your car. Treat the numbers here as the first check, not the last.

Worked Example 1: Decoding 225/45R17

StepCalculationResult
Sidewall height225 × (45 ÷ 100)101.3 mm
Rim in millimetres17 × 25.4431.8 mm
Overall diameter431.8 + (2 × 101.3)634.3 mm
Circumference634.3 × π1,992.7 mm (1.993 m)
Revolutions per km1,000,000 ÷ 1,992.7502

So this tyre turns 502 times per kilometre. That single figure is what the speedometer, odometer, ABS and traction control all work from.

Worked Example 2: Factory vs a Larger Aftermarket Tyre

Moving from a factory 225/45R17 to an aftermarket 245/45R18 — a wider tyre on a rim one inch larger.

Measure225/45R17245/45R18Change
Sidewall101.3 mm110.3 mm+9.0 mm
Overall diameter634.3 mm677.7 mm+43.4 mm (+6.84%)
Circumference1.993 m2.129 m+136.3 mm
Revolutions per km502470−32
Speedo reads 100 km/h100 km/h true106.8 km/h true+6.8%
This is too big a jump. At nearly 7%, the speedometer now under-reads by almost 7 km/h at highway speed. Sitting on an indicated 100 in a 100 zone, you are actually doing close to 107 — and your speedometer will not warn you. It also eats most or all of the manufacturer's built-in over-read, which is the buffer that keeps the car compliant with ADR 18/03. A change of this size needs a matching tyre chosen to hold diameter, not just a bigger rim.

Worked Example 3: An SUV Tyre Upgrade

A dual-cab running factory 265/65R17, upgraded to 285/70R17 — the same rim, a wider and taller tyre.

Measure265/65R17285/70R17Change
Sidewall172.3 mm199.5 mm+27.3 mm
Overall diameter776.3 mm830.8 mm+54.5 mm (+7.02%)
Revolutions per km410383−27
Speedo reads 100 km/h100 km/h true107.0 km/h true+7.0%
Ground clearance+27.2 mm

Only half the diameter increase becomes ground clearance — the axle rises by half the change, and the other half goes upward into the guard, which is where clearance problems begin at full suspension compression and full steering lock.

A taller tyre also lowers your effective final drive ratio. The engine turns more slowly for the same road speed, which sounds efficient but usually is not: the vehicle now works harder in each gear, and heavier off-road tyres add unsprung and rotating mass. Most owners see consumption rise, not fall. Work out what that costs you with the fuel cost calculator.

Worked Example 4: Off-Road 4WD Tyres

The same 285/70R17 dimensions again, but in an all-terrain or mud-terrain construction rather than a highway tyre. The size arithmetic is identical; the trade-offs are not.

GainsCosts
All-terrain (A/T)Better gravel and dirt traction, tougher sidewalls, reasonable on roadMore road noise, slightly higher consumption, softer on-road handling
Mud-terrain (M/T)Large void blocks clear mud and clay; strong puncture resistanceNoticeably noisy, longer wet braking distances, faster wear, highest consumption

The honest question for most owners is how much genuine off-road driving they do. A mud-terrain tyre on a vehicle that spends 95% of its life on bitumen costs fuel, noise and wet grip every single day to deliver traction used a few weekends a year.

Tyre Types for Australian Conditions

Size tells you the dimensions. Type tells you what the tyre is built to do — and the categories that matter in Australia are not the same as those quoted on European or North American sites.

TypeMarkingSuitsTrade-off
Touring / highway (H/T)Often unmarkedMost passenger cars and family SUVsLittle off-road ability
Performance / summerOften unmarkedSports cars, dry and warm conditionsFirmer ride, faster wear, poorer in cold
All-seasonM+SDrivers wanting one tyre year-roundCompromised at both temperature extremes
All-terrain (A/T)M+S, sometimes 3PMSFUtes and 4WDs on gravel, dirt and bitumenMore noise, slightly more fuel
Mud-terrain (M/T)M/T on sidewallSerious off-road, mud and clayLoud, longer wet braking, fastest wear
Winter3PMSF snowflakeAlpine areas onlyWears rapidly in warm conditions
Australia has no winter tyre requirement. Most of the country never gets cold enough for a dedicated winter tyre to be worth its rapid warm-weather wear. The exception is alpine driving — the Snowy Mountains and the Victorian alps — where snow chains are the usual requirement rather than winter tyres, and where you should check the specific rules for the resort or park you are entering. Studded tyres are prohibited in Australia because of the damage they cause to road surfaces.

For the overwhelming majority of Australian drivers the honest choice is between a good touring tyre and, if you genuinely leave the bitumen, an all-terrain. Mud-terrains cost fuel, noise and wet grip every day of the year to deliver traction most owners use a handful of times.

Tyre Size Comparison Table

Common Australian sizes, calculated using the same formulas as the tool above.

SizeSidewallDiameterCircumferenceRev/kmTypically fitted to
195/65R15126.8 mm634.5 mm1.993 m502Small hatch — Corolla, Yaris, i30
205/55R16112.8 mm631.9 mm1.985 m504Medium hatch and small sedan
215/55R17118.2 mm668.3 mm2.100 m476Medium sedan and small SUV
225/45R17101.2 mm634.3 mm1.993 m502Sports sedan and warm hatch
235/45R18105.8 mm668.7 mm2.101 m476Performance sedan and medium SUV
245/40R1998.0 mm678.6 mm2.132 m469Performance car and large SUV
265/65R17172.2 mm776.3 mm2.439 m410Dual-cab ute and 4WD wagon
285/70R17199.5 mm830.8 mm2.610 m383Off-road 4WD, lifted utes

Plus Sizing: Bigger Rim, Same Diameter

Look closely at two rows in that table:

SizeOverall diameter
195/65R15634.5 mm
225/45R17634.3 mm

Two rim sizes apart, 30 mm wider — and the rolling diameter differs by 0.2 mm, or 0.03%. That is deliberate. It is called plus sizing: as rim diameter goes up, aspect ratio comes down to hold the overall diameter constant.

This is the correct way to upsize. Keep rolling diameter within about 1% of standard and your speedometer, odometer, ABS calibration and gearing all stay effectively untouched. You get the larger wheel and the sharper steering response of a shorter sidewall without any of the downstream consequences. Manufacturers use exactly this approach when they offer 17-, 18- and 19-inch options on the same model.

Speedometer Error and ADR 18/03

This is where tyre sizing stops being a preference and starts being a compliance question.

Australian Design Rule 18/03 requires that a vehicle's speedometer must never indicate a speed lower than the true speed. It may over-read, by up to 10% plus 4 km/h, but under-reading is not permitted. Accuracy is verified at set test speeds during type approval.

Because manufacturers must never breach that floor, they build in a deliberate margin — most new cars read roughly 3–7% above true speed. That margin is the buffer that absorbs tyre wear, pressure variation and small fitment changes.

Larger tyres consume that buffer in the dangerous direction. A bigger rolling diameter makes the speedo read lower than true speed. A modest increase eats into the manufacturer's over-read; a large one can push the reading below true speed altogether. Smaller tyres do the opposite, which is legally safer but means your odometer over-records distance.
Diameter changeSpeedo shows 100 km/h — true speed isPractical view
+1%101.0 km/hWithin normal tolerance
+3%103.0 km/hConsuming much of the factory buffer
+5%105.0 km/hLikely reading at or near true speed
+7%107.0 km/hVery likely under-reading — a real risk

Because your actual factory over-read is unknown, the practical test is a GPS speed app on a flat road at a steady speed. Compare the dashboard against GPS before and after a tyre change and you will know exactly where you stand.

The Odometer Consequence

Speedometer error gets the attention, but the odometer runs off the same count — and its errors accumulate.

Fit tyres 5% larger and every kilometre you travel records as roughly 0.95 km. Over 20,000 km of driving that is about 1,000 kilometres your car never logged. The consequences are quiet but real:

If you have changed tyre size, apply the correction when you track distance — our mileage calculator and gas mileage calculator both assume the odometer is accurate.

Fuel Economy, Comfort and Handling

ChangeEffect
Wider tyreMore rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag; usually more grip, usually more fuel
Taller tyreMore rotating mass, lower effective final drive; typically higher consumption
Lower profile (shorter sidewall)Sharper steering response, firmer ride, more vulnerable to pothole damage
Higher profile (taller sidewall)More comfortable, more absorbent over bumps, softer initial steering feel
Aggressive tread (A/T, M/T)Off-road traction gained; road noise, wet braking and consumption all worse

Larger wheels with shorter sidewalls also mean less rubber between the rim and the road. On Australian secondary roads, an 18- or 19-inch wheel with a 35 or 40 profile is considerably more likely to suffer rim damage from a pothole than a 16-inch wheel with a 60 profile.

Tyres for Electric Vehicles

An EV places demands on a tyre that a comparable petrol car does not, and fitting a standard tyre to one is a common and expensive mistake.

EV characteristicWhat the tyre needs
Battery mass — often 300–500 kg more than an equivalent petrol carA higher load index, and construction rated for the extra weight
Full torque from standstillTougher compound and tread design; standard tyres wear noticeably faster
Efficiency directly affects driving rangeLow rolling resistance — a thirstier tyre costs range, not just money
No engine noise to mask road roarNoise-absorbing foam liners and quieter tread patterns
Regenerative brakingDifferent wear pattern; rotation intervals matter more
Check the load index before anything else. An EV's kerb mass is frequently higher than its petrol equivalent in the same size class, so the placard load rating is often higher than you would expect for the tyre size. Fitting a passenger-rated tyre because it is the right dimensions — but a lower load index — is genuinely unsafe. Many EV-specific tyres carry an "HL" (high load) prefix or an EV marking from the manufacturer.

The size arithmetic on this page applies unchanged to electric vehicles. What changes is which tyre within that size you should be fitting.

Load Rating and Speed Rating

The characters after the size are the ones most likely to be overlooked and the most safety-critical.

Load indexMax load per tyre
82475 kg
91615 kg
95690 kg
100800 kg
1101,060 kg
1201,400 kg
Speed ratingMaximum speed
Q160 km/h
S180 km/h
H210 km/h
V240 km/h
W270 km/h
Y300 km/h
Never fit a tyre with a lower load or speed rating than the placard specifies. Load rating matters most on utes, vans and anything that tows or carries weight — a tyre rated below the vehicle's requirement can fail under load. Speed rating also correlates with construction and heat tolerance, not just top speed. Fitting below specification may affect roadworthiness and insurance.

Tyre Pressure After a Size Change

The pressures on your placard are specified for the tyre size the vehicle was delivered with. Change size significantly and those figures may no longer be correct, because a different tyre volume and load rating carries the same weight differently.

Tyre Replacement Checklist

Six checks, none of which take more than a minute:

CheckWhat to look for
Tread depthThe legal minimum in Australia is 1.5 mm in the principal grooves. Tyre manufacturers and motoring bodies generally recommend replacing at around 3 mm, because wet braking falls away sharply below that
Tread wear indicatorsSmall raised bars moulded into the grooves. When the tread is flush with them you are at the legal limit — not approaching it
Tyre ageThe four-digit DOT code gives week and year of manufacture — "2224" means week 22 of 2024. Many manufacturers suggest replacement at around five years regardless of remaining tread, since rubber hardens with age
Sidewall conditionCracking, bulges, cuts or gouges. A bulge means internal structural damage and the tyre should be replaced immediately, whatever the tread looks like
PressureMonthly, when cold, against the placard on the driver's door frame
Uneven wearWear on one shoulder usually means alignment; wear in the centre or on both shoulders usually means pressure. Both waste tyres and neither fixes itself
The 1.5 mm versus 1.6 mm confusion. You will see both quoted. Australia's legal minimum is 1.5 mm; the 1.6 mm figure comes from Europe, and also from rounding the American 2/32 of an inch, which is 1.58 mm. Either way, both are limits for an unroadworthy tyre rather than targets — a tyre at the legal minimum has substantially longer wet stopping distances than a new one.

Two more worth booking at the same time: wheel balancing whenever tyres are fitted, and a wheel alignment if the car pulls, the steering wheel sits off-centre, or the previous set wore unevenly. Both protect the tyres you have just paid for.

Australian Rules and Roadworthiness

Wheel and tyre fitment in Australia is governed partly by the Australian Design Rules and partly by state and territory regulations, and the detail varies depending on where the vehicle is registered.

Commonly applied principles include maintaining speedometer accuracy within ADR 18/03, keeping tyres contained within the vehicle's bodywork, limits on how much wider a rim may be than the widest option the manufacturer offered, and limits on varying aspect ratio between front and rear axles. Suspension lifts beyond a modest height generally require engineering certification.

Check before you commit, not after. Requirements differ between states and territories and change over time. Confirm any planned change against your state or territory road authority, your vehicle manufacturer's fitment guide, and your insurer — an undeclared modification can affect a claim, and a non-compliant fitment can fail a roadworthy inspection. A tyre retailer familiar with your state's rules is a good first call.

Common Mistakes

  1. Reading the aspect ratio as millimetres. The 45 in 225/45R17 is a percentage of the width, not a height in millimetres.
  2. Comparing width instead of diameter. Width affects grip and clearance. Rolling diameter is what changes your speedo, odometer and gearing.
  3. Ignoring the load index. Fitting a passenger-rated tyre to a ute that tows or carries weight is a genuine failure risk, not a technicality.
  4. Ignoring the speed rating. It reflects construction and heat tolerance, not just a top speed you will never reach.
  5. Going too large. Beyond a few per cent, the speedometer starts under-reading and rubbing becomes likely at full lock or full compression.
  6. Mixing sizes across an axle. Different rolling diameters on the same axle upset ABS, stability control and — on all-wheel drive — the centre differential or transfer case, which can cause expensive driveline damage.
  7. Carrying the old tyre pressure across. The placard figure applies to the placard tyre size. A different size may need a different pressure.
  8. Forgetting wheel offset. Two wheels of identical diameter and width can sit at very different depths in the guard. Offset decides whether the tyre clears the strut on one side and the guard on the other.
  9. Assuming bigger is always better. Larger wheels usually mean firmer ride, more rim damage risk, higher tyre prices and slightly worse economy. The gains are mostly appearance and steering response.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you calculate tyre size?

Multiply the width by the aspect ratio divided by 100 to get sidewall height, then add twice that to the rim diameter converted to millimetres. For 225/45R17: sidewall is 225 × 0.45 = 101.3 mm, and overall diameter is (17 × 25.4) + (2 × 101.3) = 634.3 mm. Multiply diameter by π for circumference.

What does 225/45R17 mean?

225 is the tyre width in millimetres. 45 is the aspect ratio — the sidewall height as a percentage of the width, giving 101.3 mm here. R means radial construction. 17 is the rim diameter in inches. Any characters after that, such as 91V, are the load index and speed rating.

Can I fit bigger tyres to my car?

Often yes, within limits. Keeping the rolling diameter within roughly 1% of standard avoids speedometer and odometer error entirely. Beyond that you need to consider guard clearance at full lock and full suspension compression, wheel offset, load rating, and your state's fitment rules. Check with your manufacturer's fitment guide and a tyre retailer familiar with local requirements before buying.

How much speedometer error is acceptable?

Under ADR 18/03 an Australian speedometer must never indicate below true speed, and may over-read by up to 10% plus 4 km/h. Manufacturers typically build in a 3–7% over-read as a buffer. A tyre change that increases rolling diameter eats into that buffer, so smaller changes are safer. The only reliable check on your own car is comparing the dashboard against a GPS speed reading.

Does tyre size affect fuel economy?

Yes. Wider tyres increase rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag, and taller tyres add rotating mass while lowering the effective final drive ratio. Aggressive off-road tread patterns add more again. Most size increases raise consumption rather than lower it, even though the engine turns fewer revolutions per kilometre.

Does tyre size affect speedometer accuracy?

Directly. Your car counts wheel rotations and multiplies by a circumference figure set at the factory. Larger tyres travel further per rotation, so the speedometer reads lower than your true speed. Smaller tyres do the reverse. A 5% diameter increase means a true 105 km/h when the dashboard shows 100.

What is rolling diameter?

Rolling diameter is the overall diameter of the inflated tyre — rim diameter plus two sidewalls. It is the figure that determines circumference, revolutions per kilometre, and therefore your speedometer and odometer readings. When comparing two tyre sizes, this is the number to match.

What is the tyre aspect ratio?

The aspect ratio is the middle number in a tyre size and expresses sidewall height as a percentage of tread width. A 55 aspect ratio on a 205-wide tyre gives a 112.8 mm sidewall. Lower numbers mean shorter sidewalls, sharper steering response and a firmer ride; higher numbers mean more comfort and more protection from pothole damage.

Can different tyre sizes damage an AWD system?

Yes, and this is one of the more expensive mistakes. All-wheel drive systems expect all four wheels to rotate at matched speeds. Different rolling diameters — from mixed sizes, mismatched wear, or replacing only two tyres — force the centre differential or transfer case to work continuously, which can cause serious damage. Replace all four together on AWD vehicles wherever possible.

Should I change tyre pressure after changing tyre size?

Possibly. Placard pressures are specified for the original tyre size, and a different size with a different volume or load rating may need a different pressure to carry the same weight correctly. Ask your fitter for the recommended pressure for the new size rather than carrying the old figure across, and check monthly when cold.

What is a load rating?

The load index is a coded number indicating the maximum weight a single tyre can carry at its rated pressure — 91 means 615 kg, 110 means 1,060 kg. It matters most on utes, vans and towing vehicles. Never fit a tyre with a load index below the figure on your vehicle's tyre placard.

What is a speed rating?

The speed rating is a letter indicating the maximum speed the tyre is designed to sustain — H is 210 km/h, V is 240 km/h, W is 270 km/h. It reflects construction and heat tolerance rather than being purely about top speed, so a lower-rated tyre is not simply an unused margin. Fitting below the manufacturer's specification may affect roadworthiness and insurance.

Match the Diameter, Then Everything Else Follows

The single most useful habit when changing tyres is to compare overall diameter before anything else. Hold it within about 1% of standard and your speedometer, odometer, ABS calibration and gearing all continue working as designed — which leaves you free to choose width, profile and tread pattern on their merits.

Beyond that, weigh the change against how you actually drive. Check what a size change does to your running costs with the fuel cost calculator, re-measure your real consumption afterwards with the gas mileage calculator, and confirm anything unusual with your manufacturer's fitment guide and your state road authority before committing.

📋 References & Further Reading

Department of Infrastructure — Australian Design Rules, including ADR 18/03 speedometers NRMA — Tyre care, safety and fitment advice National Heavy Vehicle Regulator — Heavy vehicle tyre and wheel standards Australian Green Vehicle Guide — Vehicle specifications and fuel consumption